Question 1

How can I tell if a leak is coming from the chimney flashing or the surrounding tiles?

Accepted Answer

Damp staining that runs directly down the chimney breast inside your loft or upper bedrooms usually points to failed leadwork. We look for split lead aprons, step flashings that have pulled out of the mortar joints, or perished silicone seals from previous quick fixes. If the water spreads further out across the ceiling rafters away from the brickwork, the problem is more likely cracked roof tiles or a split underlay nearby.

Question 2

Why is the mortar crumbling and falling from my chimney stack?

Accepted Answer

Leicester chimneys take the brunt of wet weather and harsh frost cycles, which forces moisture into tiny hairline cracks in the masonry joints. When that trapped water freezes and expands, it blows the mortar faces off and causes older brickwork to spall and shed grit onto your roof or driveway. We rake the damaged joints out cleanly, replace any blown bricks, and repoint using a durable mortar mix that lets the stack breathe and shed water properly.

Question 3

What is chimney flaunching and how do I know when it needs replacing?

Accepted Answer

Flaunching is the sloped mortar benching at the very top of your stack that holds the terracotta chimney pots in place and directs rainwater off the edges. Over time, thermal movement from the flues and freezing rain cause this cement bed to crack, which loosens the pots and lets water run straight down the core of the stack. If we find loose chunks of mortar in your gutters or notice the pots shifting, we chip away the failed benching completely and re-bed the pots on a fresh, angled mix.

Question 4

If my chimney flues are disused, should they be sealed up completely?

Accepted Answer

Never seal a disused flue completely airtight, as residual moisture inside the stack will have nowhere to escape and will eventually seep through your internal plasterwork as damp stains. Instead, we fit breathable terracotta air caps, pepper-pot inserts, or stainless steel bird guards that stop wind-driven rain and keep jackdaws from nesting. This keeps a steady stream of ventilation running through the stack from top to bottom, keeping the masonry dry all year round.

Question 5

Can you rebuild an unstable chimney without taking it down inside the house?

Accepted Answer

Yes, we rarely need to touch the internal chimney breast unless there is severe structural movement inside the building. We dismantle the compromised stack safely from the top down to where the brickwork remains solid and sound, which is typically just above the roofline. From that stable base, we rebuild the masonry using matching bricks, install new Code 4 lead flashings into the bed joints, and re-bed the pots on fresh flaunching.

Question 6

Do you always need full scaffolding to repair a chimney stack?

Accepted Answer

Minor tasks like securing a single cowl or sealing a small section of lead on a shallow roof can sometimes be handled using specialist roof ladders and safety harnesses. For significant repointing, replacing full lead aprons, or taking down brick courses, a proper scaffold tower built around the stack is necessary so we can work safely without dropping heavy masonry onto your roof tiles. We inspect the pitch, ridge height, and location of the stack to determine the safest access method before starting.

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